An Afternoon in Boljoon

From the side of the church

Yesterday, I was finally able to tick Boljoon off my list of towns to visit in Cebu. With my sister and our ever supportive father, we walked around town and even got to see a waterfall!

The Nuestra Señora del Patrocinio de Maria Parish Church  or better known as Boljoon Church was built in 1599 and served as a visita of Carcar until it was declared a parish in 1690 by the Augustinians. Administration of the church was transferred to the Jesuits in 1737 but the Augustinians returned in 1747 and claimed the church from the Jesuits. The church was declared as a National Historical Landmark by the National Historical Institute in 1999, and was listed as a National Cultural Treasure by the National Museum of the Philippines in 2001.  It is the only church in Cebu listed as a National Cultural Treasure. 

Escuela Catolica. The 4 PM sunlight gave the former school an eerie look

A few meters from the church was the Escuela Catolica. Built in 1940, it served as a dorm for children receiving instructions on taking their first communion. It served as a place for religious teaching and as a school. Currently, it served as a meeting place for various religious  groups of the parish. 

The door to El Gran Baluarte

Across Escuela Catolica is the El Gran Baluarte, the largest extant Spanish watchtower in the Philippines. Built in 1808, the watchtower served as command center of Fr. Julian Bermejo, OSA while he defended the Visayan seas.

After walking around the parish complex, we looked for Ili Rock as we read on one of the markers that Ili Rock can be seen looming over the horizon. When we found out where Ili Rock is, we were saddened by the damage done to the natural fortress in an effort to make better roads. :(

Driving deeper into Boljoon, we got to Sitio Ylaya, where the waters of Dayhag Falls refreshed our bodies after a long day of trekking, driving and getting lost. 

It was great seeing my sister and my father having fun. With our busy schedules, we don't go out together these days but I am glad that we made time to actually push through this short trip, rain or shine. :)

A Day in Negros Occidental

After weeks of juggling work and personal issues, I spent a day in Negros Occidental. With no plan in mind, I just wandered around Bacolod and its neighboring cities. Luckily, my parents knew someone who was kind enough to take their troubled daughter around. Our first stop was Victorias to go to St. Joseph the Worker Parish Church or

See the all-seeing eye?

"Church of the Angry Christ". The Church got its nick name from the mosaic on the altar of the church. It features Christ with his arms outstretched, looking angry. I was amused at the colors and the Masonic symbols that come along with the mural of Christ (see the all-seeing eye?).

We said our prayers and drove to Talisay City to see the famous "Ruins", one of the most-photographed tourist spots in Negros. Initially, we weren't allowed to go in as the whole place was rented out for a wedding bit after promising that we won't take long, the caretakers let us in. The ruins was once a magnificent mansion of Don Mariano Ledesma Lacson, built in honor of his wife, Maria Braga. Sadly, it was destroyed during World War II. It was burnt to the ground so that the Japanese forces could not use it as their headquarters. What remained after the fire was the concrete structure that now attracts hundreds of tourists. Wandering around the grounds made me imagine how grand it must be during its glory days, with Don Mariano and Maria's children on the grounds, enjoying a quiet night.

Still beautiful.

We headed back to Bacolod City to have lunch. I got to taste the famous Bacolod Inasal in Manokan Country and had desserts in Calea. Their cakes were so good I considered bringing some to Cebu but realized that the day's still long and the icing would melt under the heat. With full stomachs, we headed to Silay City, the "Vigan in Visayas" to see the old houses and museums. Just like Vigan, Silay is considered a "Museum City" where old houses and buildings were kept preserved.

Inside Bernandino-Jalondoni
Museum

Our first stop was the Bernandino - Jalondoni Museum. We didn't know we were already in front of the museum until we asked around as it blended in with the many old buildings that were turned into modern day establishments. After paying our entrance fee of 20 Php, the caretaker gave us a tour of the museum. The two-storey house was once the residence of Don Bernardino and Doña Ysabel Jalandoni. The rooms were very well taken care of and the furniture were reminiscent of our old furnishings when my grandparents were still alive. I sort of connected to the framed poster of Jesus and the framed photographs of beauty queens as my aunt used to have those on her wall back at home. We asked the caretaker if there were other worldly beings in the museum. She just smiled and said yes.

Our next stop was the Balay Negrense, the 

Child's play. Inside Balay Negrense

ancestral house of Victor F. Gaston. Although the lower storey is not really made of stones, it is still considered a "bahay na bato". I paid my 50 Php entrance fee and went inside the house. There were no tourists at that time so I had the house to myself. :) I went to the second floor and it felt eerie, with the afternoon wind blowing through the large windows of a child's room ( I assumed it's a child's room 'cause it had a  crib and toys). I wandered a bit more until I heard a sound of something that fell the moment I stepped into the room. Seeing the dolls on the rocking chair and their lifeless eyes, I quickly went down, said thank you to the caretaker and continued to walk the streets of Silay. There were several ancestral houses there but they were all gated so I just admired the architecture, took a few photos from afar and walked on. I passed by the Cinco de Noviembre Memorial which commemorates the Negros Revolution against Spanish rule. After reading the memorial marker, I hailed a cab and headed for the airport to catch my flight back to Cebu.  

Cinco de Noviembre. The cannon is an authentic Spanish colonial-era cannon donated by Claudio G. Akol, Jr.

The trip was short but it was enough to make me forget about the things that I have to face this Monday. Ha!

Heritage Monument

The Heritage Monument gives one a view of Philippine history in a 360 turn. The monument shows the pride, unity and cultural wealth of the Filipinos, from the early Filipinos, to the dawn of European colonization, the revolution of 1896 and the birth of the Philippine Republic. It shows the heroic contribution of the Cebuanos and the saga of events that led to the nation that we know today.

The monument makes one feel proud to be a Cebuano, for it shows that Cebuanos contributed a lot to the nation-building of the Philippines. However, we do not recommend going to the place during midday, for the heat of the sun is really uncomfortable. The heritage monument is located in Parian and is very accessible; lots of jeepneys pass by the area.

Fort San Pedro and Plaza Independencia

The fort where the Cebuanos drove out the Spaniards in the battle of 1989.

Due to the making of the underground highway, some roads leading to
Fort San Pedro and Plaza Independencia are closed. However, one can still access the place through local transportation and through private vehicles.

The stone walls of the fort and the tunnel-like entrance makes one feel part of history. The statue of Santo Niño can be seen on top the entrance of the Fort, evidence to the trust and faith that Cebuanos have on the miraculous child Jesus. The Plaza Independencia wasn’t as well-preserved as the fort, reduced to a dating place and as what rumors have it, a place where “bedroom activities” are done.

The fort is a good place to laze around during weekends. For 21 Php, one can enjoy the cool grassy grounds, strolling, sitting, eating, hanging out with friends and family or simply just people-watching. An added plus: one gets to enter the National Museum at no additional cost. The National Museum is inside the fort.

Plaza Independencia was closed due to on-going construction of the underground highway. Nevertheless,we can see the Plaza through the gates. It is quite dirty and smelly and a lot of vendors were selling their wares outside and within a few feet from the gate of the plaza.

Colon Street Markers

These markers that line up both sides of Colon street represent what building was standing there way back during the late Spanish colonization period. Colon was once the center of economic activity, where most of Cebu’s prominent people reside and where most plants, factories, shops and schools were established. Destroyed during the American and Japanese occupation, these markers are a reminder to the people of the glory that Colon street once had.

These markers are very much accessible and visible from the streets. However, there were quite a number of them that lined the entire street with several showing redundant information. These markers are not so effective in terms of presenting information. People can easily ignore the signs and reading one doesn’t exactly let you see the whole picture how Colon was like. But for us, who trailed the markers, we saw how Colon used to be the center of business. There were homes of prominent people like Doña Modesta Gaisano and Sergio Osmeña Sr.,theaters, restaurants, schools and even an ice plant.

We also noticed that the pictures on each marker were the same. However, it's interesting knowing what places these existing establishments used to be, how prosperous the street once was, and how the city revolved around it. It gives us Cebuanos something to be proud of.

Walking around Colon street tracing the markers is quite fun when you are with a group but we do not recommend doing it alone. The risk of getting hit by a speeding vehicle and squished to death is high, since one cannot see the markers without really getting into the street.

Magellan's Cross

The cross made of tindalo wood that we see standing tall now encases the original cross planted by Magellan on the spot on April 21, 1521.

Although the original cross is behind a case, seeing it stand so high makes one ponder and be amazed at the strength of the Catholic faith. Being at the center of a circular path, the structure enclosing the cross grabs the attention from different directions.

Because the cross is located at the center, the usual first reaction is to look at the cross. Due to the length of the cross, one traces the cross with his/her eyes upward and read the story the murals are telling. For Catholics, it makes one grateful that such a cross was planted, its roots firm and its branches spreading out.

As a historical monument, the Magellan’s Cross is well-preserved compared to the other monuments. Its interior is quite clean, the paint on the exterior not faded. Many tourists and locals still drop by the Shrine after visiting the Basilica de Santo Niño, which probably accounts for the local government’s obvious efforts to keep the place well-maintained.

Casa Gorordo

What was once the residence of Juan Isidro de Gorordo is what is now
Casa Gorordo, a museum that showcases how a typical residence during the Spanish occupation looks like. The house was built in the mid-19th century by Alejandro Reynes Y Rosales. Bought by Gorordo in 1863, the house was home to four generations of the Gorordo family. Acquired in 1980 by the Ramon Aboitiz Foundation in 1980, the house was restored and opened as a public museum. Casa Gorordo has been declared a national historical landmark by virtue of National Historical Board Resolution no. 4 dated September 24, 1991.

Evaluation

When one enters the museum, one cannot help but be awed and mesmerized by its serenity and peacefulness. The landscape outside was well-maintained and it felt like a small park with the green grass. Entrance fees to the museum would vary, depending on whether you are a local or a foreigner. Locals are charged 40 Php for adults, 15 for college students and 10 for high school and elementary students. Foreigners are charged 70 Php for adults, 50 Php for adults with a DOT-accredited tour guide and 25 Php for students and children. It is located near colon which makes it quite accessible by public transportation although if taken by jeepney, one might need to walk a few feet.

The reception isn’t that great, they seem to be more concerned that we pay the entrance fee before we can even take a peek inside. Inside, they were more open to answer our questions.

The appeal of the museum was exceptional. The house is well preserved that even upon entering the first room, it felt like you stepped into a different dimension, one that brought you back to the time of Padre Damaso and step into the shoes of Maria Clara or Don Crisostomo Ibarra. It was exciting and scary at the same time. The rooms were ornamented as if someone still lives there, very authentic. You can recreate and imagine what they would have done in each room. Although there’s not much space for a big crowd to walk together; it was very easy to walk through the entire house as the rooms were lined on one side of the house.The Casa Gorordo is relevant to history because the museum allows you to see the day-to-day lives of the middle class in the Spanish era. The museum serves as a reminder of how reserved the women were and of how influential the friars were, as evidenced by the prayer room. The museum reminds us of how our ancestors used to lived and make us relive the culture of the Filipinos.

National Museum

The National museum of Cebu is located inside the forts of another landmark relevant to Cebu’s
history—Fort San Pedro. This museum is home to artifacts from the archaeological times as well as the Spanish times.

Evaluation

The national museum is just inside the walls of Fort San Pedro, beside the wishing well. There are two floors. The first floor showcases artifacts from archaeological times. The second floor shows artifacts and antiques from the Spanish occupation. Entry to the museum is easy, you just have to pay 21 Php to the ones at the front desk of the Fort San Pedro. It may seem expensive, but your 21 Php is your pass to the Fort as well as the museum.

The reception wasn’t really nice, they were a bit rude about asking payment from us but nevertheless, we got to enter the Fort. We guess they lacked museum staff, since the guard at the second floor also served asthe receptionist at the second floor and the tour guide, explaining the historical background of each exhibit.

The museum’s exterior makes you curious about what is inside but once inside, the museum loses its appeal. This is mainly due to the exhibits which weren’t really that many and most of the exhibits can also be found in other museums. There is ease in movement, since the exhibits are mostly on shelves mounted on the walls.

The museum’s relevance is it tells the history of the Cebuanos during the Pre-colonial times as well as the Spanish times through the exhibits and artifacts.

Sto. Niño Museum

Home to artifacts, texts, paintings and photographs that gives proof of the Cebuanos’ devotion to the child Jesus is the Sto. Niño Museum. Opened in 1995, the museum bears witness to the faith that Cebuanos have on the Sto. Niño.

The museum shows different vestments of the Sto. Niño through the years in different sizes and designs, ranging from the elaborately ornamented ones to the simple ones. Paintings showing the Sto. Niño and scenes of devotion and worship of the Sto. Niño by various local artists such as Celso Pepito are also featured here.

Devotional literature, such as books of prayer and books of acts can also be seen here. Old books, which account the meetings by the members of the Cofradia of Sra. Dela Consolacion can also be seen here. These old books are covered in animal skin, mostly from cows and pigs. The layout of the building plans for the Cathedral can also be seen here.

Church pieces used in liturgical services and vestments worn by priests in performing sacraments and rites are also displayed in the museum. Chalices from the 1900’s, cruets from the 17th century, ciboriums, patenas are some of the church pieces on display. Dalmatics and capes from different times and worn by holy figures on significant occasions are also on display.

Evaluation

The Basilica Del Sto. Niño Museum is open on Tuesdays until Sundays. For a fee of 10 Php for adults and 5 Php for students and children, locals and tourists alike can enter the museum which is located at the basement of the Pilgrim’s Center of the Basilica del Sto. Niño Cathedral in Osmeña boulevard. Attending to us that time was Mrs. Maribel S. Emenido, the museum registrar. She wasn’t really that helpful, but she was nice. Photography is not allowed inside the museum.

The museum’s appeal comes from the ambience of the lighting outside the museum. The soft lighting gives one a feeling of otherworldliness and draws one to take a peek inside the museum. However, improvement is needed as to the arrangement of the display cabinets and counters since the place is quite small and movement isn’t easy when there are lots of people.

The Cathedral Museum of Cebu

The Cathedral Museum of Cebu was first established by the late Msgr. Virgilio “Nene” Yap. In response to the challenge by the late Pope John Paul II, the Cebu Archdiocesan Commission for the Cultural Heritage of the Church was formed. The commission was tasked to reestablish the museum.

The Cathedral Museum of Cebu used to be an old rectory. The rectory is made of stone the lower level and a combination of hardwood and other lighter materials on the upper level. The inner walls are made of “tabique pampango,” a thin wall of interlaced pieces of bamboo which is coated with lime mixed with sand. The convent roof is made of clay tiles (teja). Now, it houses the collections depicting the evolution of Christianity in Cebu in six galleries.

The Cathedral Museum has a reconstruction of a chapel which contain the Carmen
collection of a tabernacle, gradas and altar panels made of wood encased in silver from the parish of Carmen, Cebu.

Cuna del Cristianismo: The Ecclesiastical Treasures of the Archdiocese of Cebu

The Museum showcases how Catholicism flourished in Cebu in six galleries.

The first gallery showcases the early beginnings of the Catholic faith through illustrations, texts and photographs. It traces the spread of Catholicism throughout the islands and the role of the diocese in establishing settlements centered on the Church.

The second gallery shows memorabilia of the third Archbishop of Cebu, Ricardo Cardinal Vidal. This gallery traces the life of the archbishop through text, artifacts and vestments.

The third gallery focuses on how churches were built during the Spanish period. This gallery features blue prints, construction plans, photographs and actual building materials and techniques that are no longer used today. The highlight of this gallery is the period documentation of the materials used in constructing the church of Liloan, Cebu.

The fourth gallery is an exhibit of Spanish era relics and statues of saints from different parishes. Some of the statues are made of ivory and wood that because of security reasons, are only displayed on special occasions or when permits to see them are obtained.

The fifth gallery displays items that are used during the Liturgy and in instituting the sacraments. Here,we find a collection of chalices, cruets, ciboriums and sacras as well as the vestments of the priests and portraits of former bishops.

The sixth and last gallery gives viewers a glimpse of a typical bedroom of a priest in the diocese.Displayed here are furniture, books, and some archaeological material that were unearthed during the restoration of the convent.

Evaluation

The rates are 50 Php for adults and 25 Php for students and children. The museum is open from 8 AM to 12 NN and 1 PM until 6 PM. The Receptionist, Mrs.Erlinda Arnoco, is warm and welcoming. She gave us a short talk about where the different artifacts came from,their names and how they were used.

The museum is across the Cebu Cathedral and is just along the corner of Manalili Street and P. Gomez Street. It is accessible by taxi or by jeepney. The convent’s house-like exterior mixed with a bit of modern day architecture provides its appeal. The spaciousness, the arrangement of the gallery at the second floor and the chapel and lobby in the first floor gives ease in entering and exiting the place.

Although still in an ongoing process of restoration and reestablishment, the museum is relevant becauseit safeguards the collections of ecclesiastical tradition. It also helps locals and foreigners alike to understand the importance of the past.

Museo Sugbo

Museo Sugbo is housed in what was once the provincial jail of Cebu, Carcel de Cebu. Designed in 1869 by Domingo de Escondrillas, the prison was originally proposed as the main prison of the Visayas district, which accounts for its large size. The Carcel changed its name twice, first during the American to the post-war periods when it was called the Cebu Provincial Jail. In the 1980’s, the name was changed to Cebu Provincial Detention and Rehabilitation Center.

The transfer of the provincial jail to a larger prison in 2007 ushered the conversion of the provincial jail into what is now the Museo Sugbo, the repository of Cebuano heritage.

The Galleries
There are four galleries open to the public as of the moment: the pre-colonial gallery, the Spanish gallery, the Spanish withdrawal from Cebu gallery and the American gallery.

Artifacts from the archaeological times can be seen in the pre-colonial gallery. These artifacts are loaned to the museum from the collections of the University of San Carlos and from private collectors such as Mr. Vince Escario and Mr. Roderick Poca, who is a also a faculty member of the University of San Carlos. This gallery also featured artifacts from the Chinese, since the Cebuanos were also active in trading with them, even before the Spaniards came. Pots, clay jars and plates from the Sung, Yuan and Ming Dynasty are proofs that trade with the Chinese did occur in Cebu. Artifacts from Thailand and Vietnam can also be seen in this gallery. It was recently
asserted that the Thai and Vietnamese once engaged in trade with the Cebuanos. Handmade celadonwares from Thailand (formerly called Siam) which resemble Chinese porcelain were found in some parts of Cebu.

The Spanish gallery gives a glimpse of how Cebu was when the Spaniards arrived on Cebuano shores on March 16, 1521. After a week, Raja Humabon and his wife, Amihan, got baptized and were given the Catholic names of Carlos and Juana. The Spaniards gave Juana a statue of the Sto. Niño. All the other Cebuanos in the island of Cebu also got converted. However, the Spaniards weren’t received nicely by the people of Lapu-Lapu.There, Magellan died in a battle where the Spanish forces were outnumbered by the natives. The gallery also featured items from the Galleon Trade, the Encomienda System and the two oldest books on Cebuano grammar in Spanish can also be seen here: Arte de la Lengua Zebuana and the Diccionario Bisaya Español.

We weren’t allowed to take photos of the artifacts. But we can take photos of the walls...=)

The third gallery shows the Spanish withdrawal from Cebu. It showcases pictures, news items, post cards and other memorabilia from that time in history. Here you can find original copies of Ang Suga, the first newspaper of Cebu. Old copies of The Freeman can also be seen. News about the death of Leon Kilat was the in the headlines at that time.

The American gallery also contains items from the short-lived Japanese occupation. Shells of bombs dropped in Colon Street can be found here. Boxes which contain rations from the Americans
can be seen here. Old currencies from Japan and America can be found here, as well as emergency money which was printed to be used only in specific places during wartime.

Evaluation

Entry to the museum is easy. However, as with all museums, a fee is required. Rates start at 5 Php for students and children, 10 Php for adults and 50 Php for foreigners. The curator, Mr. Radcliff Estrada, personally attended to us and gave us a talk about the items in the different galleries. The staff is friendly and helpful.

The museum’s appeal comes from the building’s old-world feel, its spaciousness and arrangement of the galleries provides ease of movement which other museums severely lack. As to Accesibility, it’s just along the road of MJ Cuenco so, one can just ride a jeepney or a taxi. There was no gift/book shop around, since the museum’s construction isn’t finished yet.

Some museums in Cebu specialize in specific areas of interest and times in history. The museum’s
relevance comes from the fact that it gives a glimpse of the history of Cebu in general, making locals and tourists appreciate and understand the past and give them a sense of belongingness and familiarity with history.